FAQ

Here are the frequently asked questions we have received through out the years, if you don’t see the answer for your inquiry here, feel free to contact us.
Q: List of Commercial Carriers?

A: Here are the list of commercial carriers and couries that we deal with:

Commerical Carriers

  • Canadian Freightways
  • Gardewine Transport
  • Day & Ross
  • Fast Frate
  • Grimshaw Trucking
  • Hwy9 Transport
  • Jay’s Transport
  • Rosenau Transport
  • VanKam Freightways

Couriers

  • Purolator
  • DHL

Other

  • Canada Post
Q: How to Ensure Actual Size Printing for the Bolt Circle Template?

A: You have to know which browser you are using while viewing the template. We have prepared a post to ensure the print settings are correct for the template.

Click Here to view the post.

Q: How to Measure a Trailer Spring Axle?

A: We have prepared a video and written tutorial about measuring trailer spring axles.

Click Here to view the post.

Q: How To Measure a Torsion Axle?

A: We have prepared a video and written tutorial about measuring torsion axles.

Click Here to view the post.

Q: How to Measure a Trailer Wheel and Tire?

A: We have prepared a video and written tutorial about measuring a trailer wheel and tire.

Click Here to view the post.

Q: How to select Torflex Axles?

A:  Determining GVW, what axles, brakes, and frame dimensions you need.

1. How to Determine the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) When building a trainer, the total Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) must be determined in order to select the right axle or axles for the application. GVW includes the weight of the empty trailer and the weight of the intended cargo. (Example: 2,000 lb empty trailer weight + 8,000 lb cargo = GVW of 10,000 lbs.)

2. How Many Axles?  After determining the GVW, the number and capacity of the axles must be selected. For example, if you want 10,000 lb GVW and want tandem axles, the minimum required capacity is 6,000 lb per axle.

3. Brakes?  First, determine if you want brakes on each axle. Most provinces require by law that at least one axle has brakes. Many provinces require that all axles have brakes. To determine how many brakes are necessary in a province, contact the local Department of Motor Vehicles. Second, determine what type of brake do you prefer. Choose from Electric, Hydraulic Single-Serve, or Hydraulic Dual-Serve.

4. What is the Length of the Axle? Of the several ways and industry terms to describe this procedure, the most popular term is “Hub Face” which is the measurement from the base of the wheel stud to the base of the wheel stud on the opposite end of the axle.

5. Which Bolt Pattern?  The Bolt Pattern of the axles can vary depending on the capacity of the axle. The Bolt Pattern also determines what type tire and wheel can be used. If there is a specific tire and wheel you would like to use, please relay that information so we can help you to determine the proper bolt pattern and axle.

6. What is the Outside Frame Dimension? Since the mounting brackets of the Torflex axles mount directly to the frame of your trailer, it is necessary to know the outside frame measurement in order to install them on the axle correctly.

7. How to Determine the Trailing Arm Starting Angle  The starting angle is the position of the spindle in reference to the trailer frame. Conctact our office for help in select the starting angle for your Torflex axle.

Q: How to select tubular axles and running gear?

A: Determining GVW, what axles, brakes, springs, and hanger kit you need

1. How to Determine the GVW – the Gross Vehicle Weight The total Gross Vehicle Weight of the trailer to be built must be determined in order to select the axle or axles to properly fit the application. GVW is the Gross Vehicle Weight including the weight of the empty trailer and the weight of the intended cargo. (Example: GVW of 10.000 Ibs. = 2.000 lb. empty trailer weight + 8.000 Ibs. cargo.)

2. How Many Axles? After GVW is known, you must select the number and capacity of the axles. For example, if you want 10,000 lb. GVW and want tandem axles, the minimum required capacity is 6,000 lb. per axle.

3. Brakes? Determine if you want brakes on each axle. Most provinces require by law that one axle has brakes. Some provinces require that all axles have brakes. To determine how many brakes are necessary in a province, contact the local Department of Motor Vehicles. What type of brake do you prefer: Electric, Hydraulic Single-Serve, Hydraulic Free-Backing, Hydraulic Duo-Serve, Hydraulic Disc or Air “S” Cam Brakes?

4. What Type of Trailer Are You Preparing? Is the trailer you are outfitting going to be a Bumper Pull, Gooseneck, King Pin or Pintle Eye Type? Is the trailer going to be a flat bed with the bed above or between the tires? Is the trailer going to need to be built with a low ground clearance? With an extra wide bed?

5. What Type of Spindles Are Going To Be Required? Straight spindles are used mostly when the bed is over the tires or when low ground clearance is not required. Examples are flat beds, pull-type utility trailers, etc. Drop spindles are used when the lowest possible ground clearance is desired. Examples are Livestock and Horse Trailers, Car Haulers, Enclosed Cargo Van Trailers, etc.

6. What Are the Spring Centers? Spring Centers are the CL (centerline) measurement of the Spring Mounting Pads on the axle. (Usually matched to the approximate frame width of the trailer.)

7. What Bolt Pattern? The Bolt Pattern of the axles can vary depending on the capacity of the axle. The Bolt Pattern also determines what type tire and wheel can be used. If there is a specific tire and wheel you would like to use. please relay that information so we can help you to determine the proper bolt pattern and axle.

8. What is the Length of the Axle? The next step is to determine the length of the axle. Of the several ways and industry terms to describe this procedure. the most popular term is “Hub Face” which is the measurement from the base of the wheel stud to the base of the wheel stud on the opposite end of the axle. Another term frequently used is “Track”. Track is the center of the tire to the center of the opposite tire. This measurement varies depending on what type of wheel used because each type of wheel (White Spoke, O.E.M., Custom) could have a different offset and this changes the tire center.

9. What Type of Springs? There are two basic types of springs to choose from: Double Eye or Slipper Springs . Double Eye Springs are used on the shackle-type suspensions. Slipper Springs are the heavy-duty type of springs used with slipper-type suspensions and will provide longer and more rugged service. Springs are sold with axles in sets of (2 each) and (1 each) U-Bolt Kit per axle.

10. What Hanger Kit? There are several Hanger Kits to choose from — single, tandem or triple for double eye or slipper-type springs. Complete Hanger Kits consist of the Equalizer and Spring Hangers to attach to the frame. Shackle Straps (if double eye springs). Equalizers for tandem or triple Hanger Kits. Hangers and all the necessary bolts and nuts to attach the Equalizers, Springs and Shackle Straps.

Q: What are the advantages of ATV/Snowmobile Trailer?

A: If you are planning to tow a trailer over poor roads with muddy or snowy conditions, a trailer with the same or reasonably close axle tire width as the towing vehicle is ideal. As long as they are close enough, the trailer tires will run in the same tracks as the towing vehicle, greatly improving mobility and tow-ability.

ATV trailers are also typically 8 ½’ wide, allowing two snowmobiles or ATVs to side beside each other on the trailer deck. Because of the width and aforementioned placement of the trailer tires relative to those of the towing vehicle, it will tow well even under difficult conditions.

Q: How do I maintain my wheel bearings?

A: Wheel bearings are very important to maintain. Tapered wheel bearings should be well-lubricated and adjusted properly for maximum service life. In order to check wheel bearing adjustment, follow these steps:

  • Block the trailer up on a level spot so it cannot move (ensure your jack is propping up a safe location such as the trailer frame, and always raise the trailer one side at a time).
  • Raise the trailer just enough for the wheels to spin freely.
  • Check for wheel play (looseness) by gripping the front and rear of each tire and rocking them back and forth (If there is play, remove the axle cap with a sharp object such as a screwdriver or fine chisel).
  • Under the axle cap, there is a castellated nut with a cotter pin or a special washer (on EZ lube spindles); the cotter pin must be straightened and pulled out while the EZ lube washer tabs must be pried up and out of the way of the nut so that the nut can be tightened.
  • Tighten the castle nut one notch at the time, then rotate the wheel (there should be a little resistance on the wheel when it is rotated – too much resistance will cause the bearing to overheat).
  • To install the axle cap, line the cap up straight with hub, using a drift (hammer) and a wooden spacer, such as a short piece of 2″x4″ material, drive the axle cap on (hammer it straight on using the spacer; hammering the axle cap directly will damage it).
  • Let the trailer down, remove the jack and apply the same procedure to the other wheels.
Q: How do I manage my electric brakes/brake control settings?

A: Today’s modern electric trailer brakes are full-time operational braking systems used primarily on light and medium-duty trailers. They are not comparable to mobile home trailer brakes, which were never designed for full-time operation. There are two systems working together with the electric brake system. One is the brake actuator (electronic brake control), and the other is the electric drum brake system typical of most trailers; both can be adjusted. When a trailer is new, it can take a few hundred kilometers for the brake shoes to set it. Once the brake shoes have seated properly, they can be readjusted if necessary. Adjustment of the sensitivity and gain on the brake control will result in smooth and predictable braking performance. The sensitivity and gain will vary according to the load weight.

If there is a noticeable delay and immediate locking of the trailer brakes after applying the brakes, adjusting the brake shoes so they are closer to the drum will eliminate the delay. Further fine-tuning using the brake control will result in smooth and seamless braking. If you are not getting enough braking, you can set the gain higher. If that does not fix the problem, your brake control may not have the capacity to handle the load (check with the manufacturer or the dealer). You may have to upgrade your brake control to one with a higher braking output capacity.

Q: What is involved with trailer towing ball safety?

A: This trailer safety tip originates from a situation in which a customer had lost his holiday trailer on the road and required trailer coupler parts. The trailer had uncoupled from the ball, and it was later discovered that the metal-to-metal contact between the ball and the inside of the coupler had worn the ball down to the point where it could easily pop out of the coupler. It is important to lubricate the ball with grease at regular intervals to mitigate the metal-on-metal wear to the ball, thereby averting a potentially hazardous situation.

Q: What is involved with trailer suspension safety?

A: Suspension components are an important aspect of a trailer’s regular maintenance. They are all load-bearing parts and as such, especially prone to wear and tear. For example, a typical conventional tandem axle trailer contains axles, hangars, leaf springs, shackle straps, shackle bolts, equalizers, u-bolts, and axle plates – all of which wear out throughout the operational life of the trailer. Although the leaf springs and equalizers usually contain Teflon bushings to extend the life of the suspension components, these bushings, shackle straps, and bolts will eventually wear out and need replacing. This is a normal part of the maintenance cycle, and periodic inspection of these components can avert problems such as premature tire wear. Left unchecked, extreme wear of these components can cause the trailer wander behind the towing vehicle, resulting in serious instability.

Q: What is involved with breakaway kit safety?

A: All trailers equipped with electric brakes include a breakaway kit; this includes a battery, battery box, and breakaway switch with attached plunger & cable. The theory is that if your coupler and ball become separated, the plunger will release from the switch and complete an electrical circuit, allowing the battery to power the brakes and stopping your trailer. The battery must be sufficiently charged and the breakaway switch cable must be properly attached to the towing vehicle in order for the system to work.

That’s why it’s important to charge the battery periodically and check the charge level with each seasonal change, especially around the winter. A wet-cell battery can freeze when exposed to low temperatures; ensuring that the battery is adequately charge will mitigate this. The breakaway switch cable itself should be attached to its own anchor in order to correct the amount of play: not too loose or too tight.

Q: What is involved with trailer wiring and electric brake safety?

A: Despite continuing improvements in trailer wiring and electrical components, wiring problems can occur if regular maintenance is neglected. Operating conditions are often the source of most of the problems encountered by trailer electrical systems. Exposure of the trailer’s underside to the sandblasting effect of gravel and sand, especially on unpaved roads, can damage the wiring.

One common issue concerns the wires coming out of the electric brakes; it is important to inspect them on a regular basis and to ensure they are clean and tucked away, not left dangling in a vulnerable position. Under winter conditions, it is important that the wiring behind the brake drum doesn’t ice up. Washing the salts, road gravel, and other corrosive materials off from the general area is highly recommended.

Other causes of wiring issues are poor groundings or poor contacts in the truck end or trailer end electrical plugs; this is commonly due to corrosion on the electrical terminals, which can halt electrical conduction. Spraying the plugs with a penetrating fluid like WD-40 will help dissolve the corrosion. Checking the electrical ground as part of your trailer’s maintenance routine is also a good idea.

Q: How do I replace or convert trailer electrical plugs?

A: When changing or converting a trailer’s electrical plug, be sure to mark down the location and color of each wire according to the connections on the existing trailer plug. Each wire plug connection in the trailer plug is identified by an embossed letter next to the electrical terminal. That, combined with knowing where each wire goes, will tell you what the function of each wire is (for example: running lights, signal lights, ground, and electric brakes). This is important information if your plug ever becomes detached and needs to be replaced.

Q: How do I determine my trailer needs?

A: Knowing the specifics of what you want to haul is the first step; determine the length, width, height, and weight of what you want to haul. Placing or lining up the objects you wish to haul on the ground and taking measurements can be helpful. Having the right towing vehicle is also very important; what you’re using to pull the trailer can either limit or maximize your options. All this information will help determine the frame size, strength, axle capacity, and ramping options that will suit your needs.

Q: How do I replace trailer plank decking?

A: A trailer’s deck planks are usually held in place by special hardened self-threading deck screws using a torx head. To replace them, follow these simple steps:

  • Spray the screw ends with a good penetrating fluid (such as WD-40) to work on the rust.
  • With a high-quality torx bit, unscrew as many as possible; if you’re having trouble, cut off the threaded ends of the screws with an acetylene cutting torch to avoid stripping the screw head. Once you have removed the planks, the fastest and easiest way to lay in each new plank is to clamp each one down and mark the screw holes on the underside.
  • Finally, pre-drill the holes in the plank, put in place, and apply the new deck screws.
Q: How do I maintain trailer load balance?

A: Be sure to adjust or balance your load by placing adequate tongue weight on the front of your trailer, thus ensuring proper towability.

Q: Can I use a trailer to haul water?

A: Trailers can be used to haul water provided that the trailer in question is large enough and has enough capacity. Be sure to compare the trailer and the water tank first; many water tanks, especially large round types, will not fit on a car hauler-style trailer, primarily due to the presence of the wheel fenders and the trailer’s overall rectangular shape.

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